Yesterday we travelled north. We went over the North Yorkshire moors, and under the Tyne Tunnel. It poured with rain the whole way, and we were very glad to arrive at our digs. This morning we had a good breakfast and drove up the coast to the village of Bamburgh. Bamburgh has 2 major attractions. The first is the castle. Bamburgh was the ancient capital of Northumbria, and the castle was the seat of power.

It’s a hugely impressive structure which dates back to the 11th century. Bamburgh is also the birthplace of a certain Grace Darling. A lighthouse keeper’s daughter, she became a major celebrity during Victorian times for her part in the rescue of survivors from the shipwreck of the paddle steamer Forfarshire. The rest, as they say, is history, and there is a nice museum commemorating her heroics. We spent an hour or so there learning about life as a family of lighthouse keepers back in the 19th century. Here’s the boat she and her father used for the famous rescue.

Grace is also remembered with a memorial in the churchyard of nearby St Aidan’s church. Queen Victoria apparently contributed to the cost.

There’s also a window for her in the church.

Bamburgh.

We had a walk down to the beach through the dunes.

Distant view to Holy Island, with its abbey and lighthouse.

Bamburgh is very nice and the history is fascinating, but as it doesn’t have a harbour there’s no real commercial activity beyond the 2 big tourist attractions. It felt a bit sterile to be honest. In contrast, Seahouses is positively bustling. We’re staying in a bungalow at the Olde Ship Inn, just above the harbour wall.

The harbour is busy, with a mixture of fishing vessels and Farne Islands excursion boats.

A walk on the rocks. It’s a bit breezy!

Eider ducks on the slipway.

We like Seahouses a lot. It’s exactly what a seaside village should be; lots of pubs with good food, at least 4 fish & chip shops, and plenty to do and see.

Nightfall over the harbour. On the horizon, on the right of the photo, you can see the light from Longstone Lighthouse, home of the Darling family and the location of the rescue.